Hawk 250 Mikuni Carburetor and Jets
If your hawk 250 isn’t running correctly, chances are the stock hawk 250 carburetor is not tuned correctly or using the wrong jets. I have worked on 4 different hawk 250 dual sport bikes so far and all of them had the same issue, not tuned or running the wrong jets. The hawk 250 manufactures have the adjustment screws and the screws to remove the carb cover sealed with plastic coating so you can’t take them out. My first hawk 250 bike I was able to remove the tamper proof screws they have but it does require some tools to be able to get the cover open. If you would like to mess with the stock hawk 250 carb, I have the images posted at the bottom of this blog post.
I purchased my hawk 250 mikuni carburetor and jets from amazon. If you would like to purchase this carb, you can click on the images below (links will open in new window) for the carb and jets. My affiliate link is setup with the links below and if you use my link to purchase the carb, I will get a small commission from amazon and it all goes back towards my hawk 250 and keeping this website going. If you need any help with replacing the carb, please email me and I will do my best to guide you with any issues you are having. I’m not a motorcycle or a auto mechanic but I know my way around the toolbox and how to get stuff done.
Click here to buy the hawk 250 mikuni carburetor.
Click here to buy the hawk 250 mikuni jets.
The jet size that I’m currently using is a 115 but I recommend getting the package below that has different carb jet sizes so you can quickly switch them out for testing them in your location.
I would also highly recommend swapping out the stock hawk 250 exhaust with the new hawk 250 aftermarket exhaust. Its fairly priced for what you get and the minute you swap out the hawk 250 stock exhaust with the new aftermarket one, you will notice a difference. You can read my post on the hawk 250 exhaust by clicking here.
Here are some pictures if you are looking to modify your stock hawk 250 carburetor, in my opinion the hawk 250 Mikuni carb is easier to work on and its not that expensive to get for your hawk. If you have any questions about the stock hawk 250 carb or the Mikuni one, please contact me and I will get back to you asap.
If you have a dremel then this will be much easier, we didn’t have a dremel and we didn’t want to waste anytime. So using a smallhex-saw will do the trick.
My hawk 250 upgrades, I have new sprockets, carb with new jets, new hawk 250 exhaust, new chain and digital cluster. If you are looking to buy the upgrades I have, you can purchase them from my shop, click here for hawk 250 upgrades
Do you think I should buy a hawk 250
It’s a great bike for the price. But it’s not a bike for everyone. It does require a bit more routine maintenance than a name brand motorcycle. You need to make sure you are always checking your bolts and nuts and using loctite. The bike does vibrate a lot. I had no major issues with the hawk and I have about 2600 miles on it now. But I always make sure after a few rides to go over the bike and make sure nothing is missing or loose. I had no experience working on motorcycles before the hawk 250 but now I have learned a lot from other YouTube videos and guides on doing basic changes. If you are handy with tools and willing to work on your bike then this is for you. Sorry for the long reply on the comment 🙂
Need some help on the jets…. Ordered the Mikuni VM26 and the jets from the links… only thing is i live at like 5900ft (Colorado) and I need some advice on what jets to use?
Im from New York and I’m using a 110 jet. I’m not really sure what would work best for you. They are really easy to change out. I would recommend trying a few and see which one works best for you. You might even be able to find more info on chinariders.net. I’m sure there are other hawk 250 owners in your area and they might have more info.
I live in the Denver area and I have experimented with every possible combination (Stock Carb). I can say without a doubt that the best setup for me is a 110 jet with two small washers added to the needle to make the throttle progression a little more rich. If i take out the washers it doesn’t have as much power wide open. If i go down to 105 jet its too lean, if i step up to the 115 jet its still powerful but bogs a little bit. My buddy has the Mikuni and it can handle a little more rich. he was able to get to 120 without it bogging.
Thanks for sharing. I’m on a 110 jet on the mikuni carb. I haven’t added the 2 washers yet to see what difference that makes.
Hey was wondering what level is needle on and how many turns out did you go out on fuel screw on the mikuni carb? Just looking for a bench mark to work from.
I went 3 1/2 turns out and I’m using a 110 jet with the Mikuni carb. The side screw I adjust using my RPM gauge as the bike warms up
Does ur bike exhaust pop a lot and stall when u coming to a stop sign after u made the 3 1/2 turns and 110 jet? Tomarrow jets should show up but right now my bike pops every time I shift and when I’m coming to a stop sign it sometimes kills
It does pop but not all the time, I guess it depends on her mood lol. I don’t have any issues with it stalling out on a stop or red light after doing the jets and tuning the carb. When I had the stock carb and jets then it did stall out on me.
The 3 1/2 turns was for the screw under the carb. The side screw on the carb I’m always adjusting to get the right idle Rpms when the bike is warmed up.
I did all the mobs u did but the 45 tooth. So hoping when the jets get here it doesn’t stall where do u have urs idle mine is around 1800 to 2000 there’s a black line in the green under the 2000 and that’s where mine stays. Does ur idle lower?
I’ve got to stock carb but my replacement is coming tomorrow, yeah popping in high idle, dying, is done it all. It is like I have a vacuum leak? One thing is the engine exhaust is heating up 260° which runs right by the carburetor so I’m going down to the auto store and get me some heat reflective insulation to put on the inside of the exhaust to keep the extreme heat away from the carburetor, I think it’s kind of a poor design to have carburetor so close to the exhaust but what do I know? Could the bike dying be from vapor lock?